Christian Brewer of Hyde Sails

Currently our class enjoys divided opinion on rig set up - tight rig and slack rig. Both systems, if set up correctly, are fast. The standing rig layout is naturally limited by the fact that the Squib is a one design and so to gain the maximum control of set up, a light mast is called for, one that is as flexible as possible - Holt Canopus or the etched Proctor.

The tight rigging approach is probably more user friendly. It does not rely quite so heavily on accurate jib tension to get good performance to windward, although it is as well to recognise that in lighter airs or choppy seas, excessive forestay tension can result in poor speed.

The slack rigging approach is potentially very fast and is the preferred option of the ‘fast boys’. However, it relies upon excellent control of the kicker and jib tension. To little tension results in side bend of the mast and poor pointing. A good calibrated kicker and jib tension system is vital.

Typical set ups

Shrouds

The favoured approach used to be that when you run your hands up the shrouds, outers and inners would be touching to a height of between 300mm and 500mm above deck level. (See photograph of Gerard Dyson - ed.) My preferred approach now is to (a) actively pull the mast forward so that it touches the fore edge of the mast hole (b) set inners tight and equally at this position (c) set outers fairly loose and go sailing (d) in a force 2-3 and on a beat, sight up the back of mast (e) adjust outers until the mast comes into column sideways. In other words, set the inners to allow the mast to move forward to the front of the mast hole but no further. This will enable the rig to swing forward on the run and promote lower mast bend on the beat. Set the outers to prevent sideways bend. ‘S’ bending occurs if the they are too tight! Remember to mark or record your settings.

Forestay and jib tension

Unlike dinghies which strive to prevent it, the Squib (like other keelboats) uses forestay and jib sag for upwind speed. A good jib halyard tensioning system that is well calibrated is therefore very important, so that you can go quickly to the appropriate settings for various wind and sea conditions. A minimum of 12:1 is probably required to enable most crews to adjust jib halyard tension in a breeze and 16:1 is not out of the way. Settings for varying conditions will depend upon your system but here is an initial guide:

Jib Cunningham

This controls the tension of the luff in the same way as the main cunningham controls the mainsail and it should be used fundamentally in the same way. In light conditions, with the crew inboard or down to leeward, the jib cunningham should be slackened right off. 'Scallops' should appear between the jib hanks. This powers up the sail and increases pointing by allowing the draft of the jib to move aft. As soon as the wind gets up again, the jib cunningham should be given more tension, to move the draft forward again, allowing the leech to open to exhaust wind. (See Mike Probert's comments - ed.)

Backstay

Until a few seasons ago, the backstay was a little used part of the Squibber's armoury. Now it is seen as having greater significance.

Traveller and kicker

Along with the backstay, these are the two most important controls over the shape of the mainsail.

Barber haulers and jib sheet tension

A Squib jib is built to work with a large amount of twist. To achieve this, the bearing point of the barber haulers through the deck sheave, should be 120mm off the centre line and 100mm forward of the cuddy. Correct jib sheeting is critical for good speed and pointing. Tension must not be so hard that it backwinds the main but must be hard enough to prevent overtwist and bad pointing. Be careful never to oversheet. Marks on the jib sheets are essential. (The jib sheets cars on the side deck do very little with barbers set correctly. 100mm to 150mm aft of the shroud base is a good guide.) For upwind sailing, it is usual to have the barbers set as follows:

Mainsheet outhaul and cunningham

As a very broad guide, pull everything on as the wind builds, remembering to slacken off on the downwind legs. Pulling on the cunningham will de-power the sail by pulling the draft forward and opening the upper leech. Tightening the outhaul will flatten off the bottom 1/3rd of the main, necessary for stronger winds. Be ready to slacken the outhaul when the wind drops. Otherwise, power and pointing will be lost.

Two final points

(1) While it may still look OK from the crew's point of view, a common fault is to fly the spinnaker pole too high. A less common fault is to fly it too low which results in a tight curling luff. Make sure that the spinnaker starts to collapse in the middle of the luff when it is eased.

(2) If you seem to be going slowly, don't start pulling things and especially don't pull everything tight. If things are getting a bit uptight, ease it out!